Somehow we found and rented a little whitewashed, blue-shuttered, tile-roofed, stone-floored cottage (that seemed huge to me) for $15/month out of sight of any other habitation and equipped with Spanish pottery and furniture. It had two tiny bedrooms, one main room with two little storage rooms to either side, and out the front door into another tiny room was a fireplace over which we cooked the chorizo and eggs, pasta and cheese, salads and dark purple aubergines that were our mainstay. The eggs were from chickens that ran wild on the property and laid their eggs anywhere. There were fig trees and tomato plants and parsley like grass. Water for cooking came from a cistern well and probably caused the E. coli infection I later contracted. No electricity, no running water, no indoor plumbing. Bathroom was a little straw chair with a hole in the middle sitting over a hole in the ground that was covered between visits. In no time, we became brown like boy scouts from the sun.

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