In 1964, Ibiza, the island in the middle of the Balearic chain of three (Mallorca being the largest and Formentera the smallest) both in size and location, was just jumpstarting its notoriety as a tourist mecca. Its cobbled winding hilly streets were still relatively untrammeled and quiet seaside cafes within view of fishermen tending nets were still peaceful. It was, however, above our budget and we decided to try Formentera, ten miles long by four miles wide approximately, L-shaped, reachable only by boat, its roads mostly just paths between low stone-slabbed walls filled with tiny lizards. There we would live for the next six months on the shore of a large lake called Estanque Pudent and a short hike to the Mediterranean.

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